Plique-à-jour, light on precious jewelry know-how

Among the enameling techniques used in jewelry, the “tile-a-jour” technique, which appeared in the 4th century, stands out.^e century, is one of the most exquisite and spectacular. Comprises ” fold » (probably from the verb to apply) and ” until now “ (openwork), the term refers to the filling of hollow metal cells in a piece of jewelry with enamel – while other enameling techniques are practiced on a closed metal structure, with a background. In short, it was a coloring with endless tenderness in the spaces of lace…

Once completed, the enamel piece lets in light like stained glass. “This is all plique-à-jour poetry. This old technique may seem a little old fashioned at first glance, but it will amaze you every time. When people have a medal in their hands, they watch these games of translucency and twirl it happily.” notes Camille Toupet, artistic director since 2018 of the house of Arthus-Bertrand, whose rosette medallions are made in workshops in Saumur (Maine-et-Loire) or Palaiseau (Essonne).

To achieve this result, a professional will usually take the piece of jewelry (gold or silver) with pliers, hold it in a vacuum and begin enameling like this: “on the fly” filling the cells one by one using a brush. “The whole point is to measure the presence of moisture, explains Marie Oberlin, enameller and professor at the School of Jewelry in Paris. The brush can add or remove water like a sponge, but there is a risk that too much water will cause the enamel to fall off under the weight. » Each layer of enamel – up to five or six, depending on the thickness of the jewelry – is heated in an oven to more than 800 degrees.

If Limoges remains a stronghold of enamelling in France, the current shortage of skilled craftsmen explains the rarity of plique-à-jour in modern collections, as opposed to those of the 19th century.^e centuries when this technique was in vogue. Charles Riffaud, the icon of the discipline, helped Boucheron introduce it in the 1860s, even before Art Nouveau established it in Lalique or Vever, in figurative works such as magnificent dragonflies or majestic fairies.

“This technique requires time, precision and preliminary testing to find the right colors. explains Marie Oberlin. The enameller’s job is usually to use the Pantone color chart or gouache to recreate the shade you’ve specified. However, to get as close to your desired color as possible, you must anticipate the translucency that will change its perception by asking yourself whether the gemstone will adhere to the skin or not. » Fragile, with a risk of impact and breakage when used on a ring or bracelet, plique-à-jour is typically used to color other jewelry that is less prone to collisions, such as medallions, brooches, or earrings.