Cycloretin, Clariant’s alternative to traditional retinol and bakuchiol, is an extract of Pseudostellaria heterophylla. Cultivated in China, this adaptogenic plant is used in traditional medicine. It is the only plant known to produce heterophyllin B, a peptide whose cyclic structure gives it increased biological activity, stability and potency.
Activation of the retinoid pathway
According to Clariant, CycloRetin will work by increasing levels of retinol-converting enzymes and retinol receptors in cells to better utilize intracellular retinol.
” By optimizing the use of intracellular retinol, CycloRetin does not cause the irritant reactions that occur with topical retinol. “, says Clariant.
Strengthening skin structure and barrier function
Research in vitro showed the ability of CycloRetin to enhance the biological functions of fibroblasts and reactivate the expression of genes responsible for the production of collagen and elastin.
In addition, CycloRetin also strengthens the structure of the epidermis by activating genes involved in skin barrier function and hydration.
A clinical study also showed that CycloRetin worked faster than retinol to reduce wrinkles.
Finally, two clinical studies were conducted to demonstrate the effectiveness of CycloRetin compared to placebo and bakuchiol. The new active ingredient performed better than bakuchiol on sagging and had similar effects on skin firmness and brightness.
” While studying the benefits of cyclic peptides in our laboratory, we discovered the exceptional potential of Pseudostellaria heterophylla to restart the dermal matrix production cycle. Very effective even in low concentrations, peptides play a crucial role in maintaining youthful skin. “” concludes Julie Drew, Global Technical Marketing Manager for Active Ingredients and Natural Origins at Clariant.
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