Wednesday, April 24, 2024, at the Palais de Tokyo, on the occasion of the 7th Fashion Forum entitled “Fashion in Transformation”, fashion professionals, with the support of public authorities and the main fashion federations*, advocated for the necessary re-evaluation of the professional guide. This is to respond to the labor shortage faced by high-end and luxury brands.
The first roundtable of the Fashion Forum 2024 focused on knowledge transfer. “There is a return to knowledge-related professions, but not all needs are being met,” emphasized Hans de Voer, director of Savoir Faire programs at the Fashion Institute (IFM). Many companies are obliged to provide training because no one has worked in crafts for more than twenty years. Swimming pools require appropriate diplomas. »
A statement consistent with what was said by Amedy Nasser (Simon Vonloupt Productions), manufacturer of luxury women’s ready-to-wear and major French fashion houses: “There is a gap between what is taught in fashion schools and the reality of business needs. My dream is to see IFM students come and work with us. We have “Our brand image is bad, and we need to work on the attractiveness of our professions.”
This negative perception goes beyond France, as Sophia Kasmi, founder of Zubaida, said: “Handcrafts (brocade and embroidery) are not appreciated in Morocco. Children are ashamed of their artisan parents. Zubaida was born from a desire to reinvent the system and preserve the country’s heritage. » Zubaida, who creates original pieces using the “talmat”, a symbolic Moroccan furnishing fabric, was in particular the recipient of the Crafts and Commitment Grant (25,000 euros) awarded by the Maison Mode Méditerranée Endowment Fund.
On the other hand, the reality of professional integration of professions suffers from a deficiency. On the other hand, he dreamed of becoming a creative director
To meet business needs, professional integration is the path chosen by other speakers at this roundtable. “We have a social, societal and environmental mission,” defends Jean Soufflé, general manager of Résilience, a network of textile manufacturing workshops that employ people far from work. The same goes for Awa Sangari, founder of the women’s organization HAWA, committed to the professional inclusion of women (and who will also carry the Olympic torch in Paris).
“We sell working records,” said manufacturer Amedy Nasser. To do this, we use a workforce differentiated between occupational integration, migrants and school leavers. Collaborating with brands has helped us gain fifteen points in productivity. »
“We talk about working time, but time, in this rapidly changing world, has been reduced by the production of a greater number of sets,” the IFM professor explained. In addition, designers no longer know how to draw or sew. They come up with ideas. » In this regard, the luxury manufacturer cites the story of a designer from a prestigious house (name withheld) who came to the workshops in search of museum collections: “We are thinking of creating models around artistic knowledge to encourage inspiration from these new creative profiles. »
“Knowledge, like fur, will disappear, but other innovations will take its place, hence the importance of transferring it. The idea is to customize the new tools,” concluded Hans de Voer, setting the stage for the second innovation-focused roundtable.
- The Fashion Forum is supported by the Ministry of Economy, Finance, Industrial and Digital Sovereignty and the Ministry of Culture, within the framework of the Strategic Committee for the Luxury Fashion Industry, and is organized by the French Federation of Women’s Ready-to-Wear. Haute couture and fashion, fashion forum.
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